Surfing in Lavallette

First let me state that I am not a surfer.  I do go surfing on occasion, but for the most part I am an 38 year old guy that never had the opportunity to learn to surf as a young kid (opting for the much easier body/boogie boarding).  However, around 10 -- 15 years ago I decided to try to learn how to surf.  I have gotten OK at it, being able to stand up and ride waves of very small height with relative confidence.  I ride an 8'-6" "Farrelly by Gordon & Smith" long board that was left at my grandmothers house around 20 years ago by a friend of my cousin.  I make due with what I have.

So with all of that said, here are some pictures of me from this past Saturday night, surfing down in Lavallette on 2' - 3' waves.  It was some much fun getting out there and splashing around in the surf.  The fact that I was able to catch more than a few waves and go "back-side" was a revelation for me and got me totally stoked.  I vow to try and get out at least a few more times before the summer is over....I just hope there are waves when we go down.

Here I am going back-side on a "massive" two foot wave...I am concentrating so hard at this point.

Doing my best to go left and get into the "gaping" barrel of another 2' wave.

This is how most of rides end up, with me flailing helplessly as I go one way and my board goes the other.  Still fun none-the-less....plus my daughters like when I fall more than when I am actually surfing, they laugh hysterically at me.